How to... DIY service the TT Tilter unit

[boredbloke]

Summers here! Time to keep the roof in tip top shape, servicing it will cost you around £40 if you have a basic tool set and you're not a numpty

Parts Needed;


New set of cogs from honda - (£28.76 brand new)
.25mm feeler gauges -
Grade 2 multi purpose grease
Thread lock sealant
17mm socket
10mm socket
Philips screw driver
A pencil/chalk/crayon
Plenty of kitchen roll/old towel etc (it's greasey work...)
and about an hour or so free to play a little...


Okay first off remove the tilter unit...
to do this;
- take the roof off,
- remove the two screws in the interior trim and prize it off carefully,
- remove the cable on the left by unscrewing the nut and pulling out the cable,
- disconnect the power socket on the right side
- there are 2 10mm bolts and 2 10mm nuts underneath the unit
- it should now just fall into your hands.

ta da!


first step!
Take the top off of the unit;
- undo the two screws and lift the plate off carefully,
- its likely stuck to the underneath of the plate is two washers, don't lose them
I also removed the wings on the side, i dont think it watters if you do or not to be honest...


Step 2!
- flip the unit upside down
- remove the bottom plate - 4 screws


Step 3!
Clean up job!
mine was mank! (the pic below is also missing one of the cogs.. it kind of obliterated
- carefully remove each cog, i found that the grease had gone abit funny in mine too, so i cleaned it all out



I also took the worm plate out thats held in by two screws and a small plate to the right of that held by a single screw, in the middle there is a ball bearing do not lose it!!

Cleaned up it looks as follows!



Step 4!
- Take the time now to test the lifters themselves these are the two metal cogs, lift them slightly and turn one side then the other ensure they move freely**
(**note that full twisting it clockwise will cause it to eventually stop.. thats ok!)

- if its sticking or hard to move, it will either need to be replaced or cleaned and regreased

- once done start replacing the pieces,
- firstly if you took the worm plate out grease it up and place it back in along with the ball bearing and the holding plate for it.
**Make sure you place the thread sealant on all screws being replaced!**
- Grease up your new cogs... - my new grease looks more dirty than the old one



Step 5!

- Replace all your cogs...



- now first important part...



- on the right there are two cogs (labelled 2 and 3) that have arrows on them twist the smaller one counter clockwise until the arrows meet as shown above

Step 6a!

- the cog labelled 1 should be lifted about 10mm and twisted clockwise until it stops and drop it back in place
- make a mark between cogs 1 and 2 using one of the teeth on cog 1.
- make a 2nd mark on cog 1 on further clockwise of the first one skipping one tooth to make a 2nd mark on the 3rd tooth.


now lift no.1 cog and twist counter clockwise until the marks meet again and drop it in.

Step 6b!
- repeat the above step for the other side.
- twist fully clockwise
- make your marks
- twist counter clockwise two teeth and drop back in...

Step 7
- replace the washers on the cogs, ensure they're greased
- screw the bottom plate back on - place thread lock on all the screws
- flip the unit back over

Step 8 - almost there now...



- grab your feeler gauges - .25mm
- the two nuts on the top at each side need to be done up just tight enough for the feeler gauges to move in and out.
- place the top panel over the top of the two nuts, make sure the nuts are aligned properly to fit the groves made for them - adjust slightly if you need to
- once happy replace the rubber guards (if you removed them) grease the washers and replace them.



- *2nd important bit* When placing the plate back on top of the unit there is a hole with a plastic flick switch covering it - this is where the centre roof lock enters - this needs to be pressed in when placing the plate on top of the unit.
- screw it back in place - place thread lock on all the screws
- replace the wings if you removed them...

Screw back into the car and you should be set!!

Mines now quieter, smoother and working! lol

if i've missed anything/something not clear/need more detail lemme know and i'll update the thread...

[SiR_chris]

[Paulm]

2 points of note

put loads more grease in than that

the two arrows are believe it or not, not supposed to line up with each other. they do in so far as when you replace the cogs etc, but once comlete they are supposed to be 1 tooth out iirc

other than that good write up

[scotsmaninakilt]

lovin this how to, used it when my roof stopped working, got an error code 3, nothing would happen when i tried the tt switch. tried a reset by pullin the 7.5amp, same error code, took the tilter unit out looked ok apart from the distinct lack of grease, so used this how to and put plenty grease in, tilter now workin and even better than before, smoother and quieter so happy thanks much for the how to

[solman]

Such a great guide I'm going to bump it, how to make your TV tilter last!

[bstarky1981]

Good write up buddy.

[grantmi]

I used this link to take off the tilter unit today and it helped a lot.

I also found this link very useful,Remove Roof Tilter and Service

For complete beginners (like me):
Remove the cabin light by prising off the lens (I managed to do it just using my fingernails), then undo the screw that holds the light onto the roof. I had trouble disconnecting one of the wires so I just left it dangling, and threaded it through once the grey plastic panel was unclipped.
Unclip the grey plastic panel by pulling down the back edge near the rear window. (a bit tricky getting you fingers in, but doable).
With the grey panel off, there is an electrical connector plug to the right of the tilter, which is clipped to the bodywork. To remove the unit you undo the connector, but you also have to remove the connector from the bodywork. I managed to get my fingers round the back of the bodywork, via a hole in the rear roof section and managed to compress the clip to detach the electrical connector from the body work. But once I got it off I could see there is an easier way... If you try pushing/sliding the connector to the right (I.e. away from the tilter unit, the connector should detach from the clip, which will remain intact in the bodywork, so you can slid the connector back on when you replace the unit.

Hope this helps.
Mike

[ROBERTSON]

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