B16A timing belt and water pump swap

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B16A timing belt and water pump swap

Postby Monkey VTi » Tue Nov 25, 2014 1:51 pm

Parts list (genuine Honda):
Timing belt 14400-P2T-004 (has superceded part number 14400-PR3-004) (Unitta)
Timing belt tensioner 14510-P30-003 (Koyo)
Water pump 19200-P30-003 (Kei-hin)
Tensioner spring 14516-PR3-000

These 4 items would cost you over £200 from Honda dealers, I bought mine from Autodynamics in Singapore <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.autodynamics-honda.com/index.html">http://www.autodynamics-honda.com/index.html</a><!-- m -->
And paid around £110 including delivery (site is in US$), D2MTuning are also quite competitive on prices if you want to buy in the UK.

Tools needed:

Trolley jack
Axle stands
Socket set, including deep and impact sockets
Spanners
Breaker bar
Hammer
Drift
Pliers
Container to catch coolant
Camshaft locking pins or 2 x 5mm dowels
Length of wood or similar to hold brake pedal

Ok, to start with it's worth seeing if you can undo the crankshaft pulley bolt as this will be VERY tight, I ended up taking it to my Uncles garage so he could loosen it with a drift then undo it with an air ratchet, saves getting halfway in to find you can't undo it and have to resort to heavy methods!

Put the handbrake on and chock the back wheels, lift up the front end and get your axles stands under, disconnect the battery earth lead.

Remove nearside front wheel.

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Remove the plastic tray from under the front of the car, there are plastic retainers in the wheel arches and metal bolts fixing it to the front crossmember

Now you need to remove the belts for power steering, air con and alternator. I marked these with tipex so I knew which was which as they are different lengths and it avoids the trial and error later.

Power steering belt first, you need to remove these 2 bolts marked and then unscrew the adjuster wingnut, this will drop the pump enough for you to take the belt off. Undo the 2 bolts holding the upper mount to remove it, this will give you more access to undo top engine mount shortly.

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Next is the engine mounts on the nearside as the air con belt passes over one of them. Put your trolley jack under the engine to take the weight. There is a large nut visible form under the wheel arch and 2 more on the underside of the mount. Once these are off you wont be able to take the mount off until the other one is off and the engine dropped slightly.

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Undo these 2 bolts from the upper engine mount, you can then lower your trolley jack slightly to remove the lower mount that is already loose.

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Now the air con belt, undo this threaded adjuster

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and then remove the pulley wheel by undoing this bolt and put it to one side along with the belt.

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Alternator belt now, dead easy, undo the top nut, the alternator can move forward and the belt removed.

Upper engine mount now, there are 3 bolts on the underside and one that can be seen from the front of the car, think they were 14mm, move the engine up or down to gain better access, the single one can be a bit awkward so you may need a bit of patience.

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If you are renewing the water pump now is a good time to empty the radiator of coolant, undo the little tap at the bottom of the rad and catch it in your container, take the top cap off to speed things up.
With the mounts out of the way it's time to remove the rocker cover. There are 4 domed 10mm nuts that need to come off to remove the spark plug cover.

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Take this off and carefully remove the spark plug leads. Unclip the throttle cable and move it over the rocker cover and tuck over the inlet manifold out of the way without kinking it.

Remove the breather hose at the rear of the rocker cover.

Undo the 8 10mm nuts holding the rocker cover down and the earth lead. There is also a little bracket at the rear holding the power steering pipe in place, take this off too. The rocker cover should now lift off easily. Put the 8 washers in a safe place and check the condition of the rocker gasket. Mine was ok!

With you ratchet on the crank pulley, turn the engine anti clockwise to line up the timing marks on the cam pulleys. There are 2 that point up and another 2 that will allign with each other. Now put the wedge on the brake pedal and the box into gear so the engine can't turn.

Remove the upper timing belt cover, 2 x 12 bolts and the plastic then unclips.

Remove the belts pulley wheel, the crankshaft bolt is a normal thread so needs to be turned anticlockwise. This is what I warned can be VERY tight earlier!

With the bolt out remove the pulley, look after the little key that sits on the slot. Remove the lower timing belt cover, this is easier if you lower the engine to see the bolts better, there are 4 of them.
This is what you should now see, with the cams in position the crankshaft pulley timing marks should line up. Put the locking pins in the cams to hold them in place.

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You are now ready to remove the belt. Undo the tensioner and it should move back slightly. Remove the timing belt, then remove the tensioner and spring.

If you are renewing the water pump, there are 5 x 10mm bolts holding it on, these are circled on the picture. Put your container under the engine block to catch any coolant that will come out. Give the pump a wiggle and take it out of the engine. Make sure that the 2 dowels on the pump have come out or they can be a bit awkward to remove with pliers.

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This is what it will look like. It may be an idea to let some clean water from a hose flow through to flush the old coolant out. Clean up any coolant / water residue from the side of the block.

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You are now ready to install the new parts. Have a cup of tea.



I put a thin smear of silicone lubricant on the water pump seal then popped it into place, tighten the 5 bolts up to hold it in place (12Nm according to service manual).

Put the new spring onto the tensioner with the smaller of the 2 hooks, the larger end hooks onto the peg on the engine block, screw the bolt back into the block but don't fully tighten it yet.

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Timing belt next, starting at the crankshaft and working anti-clockwise install the belt round the tensioner, water pump and cam shaft sprockets, you may have to pull the tensioner across to allow enough slack to slide it on all the way round. Double check your timing marks, then fit the crankshaft bolt and tighten, this will allow you turn the engine. Remove the spark plugs to make this easier.

Take the car out of gear and turn the engine 6 times using the crankshaft bolt. Check your timing marks are still ok.
Slacken the tensioner bolt slightly so it can move freely, turning the engine anticlockwise 3 teeth on the cam sprockets hold it in place and tighten the tensioner bolt (54Nm). Turn the engine 2 complete times and re-check the timing marks. All should be ok and the belt have the correct tension.

Put the car back in gear and remove the crankshaft bolt so you can put the lower cover back on, these bolts tighten to 10Nm. Don't forget to put the thin metal disc back in place on the crankshaft next to the sprocket, you should be able to see which way round it was previously fitted but it is slightly convex towards the sprocket.

Refit the rest of the components in the reverse to which they were removed, be careful not to overtighten the auxiliary belts.

Once all the parts are refitted you just need to re-fill the coolant, you can lift the header tank away from the engine bay and empty it, give it a rinse along with the inside of the radiator, let the flush water exit at the bottom.

Your engine water capacity may vary if your have auto transmission but for a manual it should be 4.8 litres including reservoir, with this in mind I added 2.5 litres of coolant to the radiator so it will be around 50% strength once bled. Top up with water. Undo the bleed screw on the rear of the engine, once the air is removed tighten up and top the radiator up with water. Put the cap on the radiator but only tighten to the 1st stop.
Set the heater controls to hot and start the engine to let the water circulate for a while. Once it has been run for a short while turn it off and allow to cool. Top up if needed.

All done!
Monkey VTi
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