How To Fit A Std Vti/itr/ek9 Strut Brace To Your Sol

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How To Fit A Std Vti/itr/ek9 Strut Brace To Your Sol

Postby Rachel_Gee » Sat Jun 27, 2009 3:44 pm

So wanna tighten up the front of you sol eh? But don’t want too much non-oem “bling� – I can understand read on…..

Parts:

4 x (M10 x 20mm long) bolts with matching nuts and some washers
2 x (20mm x 64mm x 3mm) steel plate (optional)
1 x OEM VTi/SiR or EK9 or DC2 strut brace

Tools:

Assorted files
10mm drill bit
Drill
14mm spanner or socket
Access to a welder (optional)
Silicon sealant (optional)

Right as we know Uk VTi’s, SiR 2’s, EK9’s and DC2’s all came with cool looking (ok or at least std looking) strut braces as std – but you own a sol that lacks the correct mounting points right?
Image

Much like above, you lack the 2 threaded mounting points that those cars have, but we are going to correct this!

So first of all, there’s 2 ways of doing this, you can simply get the 4 bolts/nuts etc, pop out the 4 rubber grommets – then simply file/drill the holes out until the bolts fit thro – and then fit your brace.

This is fine and works ok, till you need to remove the brace for any reason (and lets face it, it will get in the way when you want to work on the engine) when the bolts will keep falling out, and you will need someone to hold them in place while your tighten them up – total pita if you ask me!


That is why ill be covering another way.

First collect your parts together now we need to fabricate the following design:

Image

Note the welding goes all the way around the outside of the bolt head.

I made mine up at work, and got a work mate to do the welding, however if you print the following drawing off, im sure any engineering place could make you some up, or if you can make the metal part – im sure a local engineering/exhaust place can just weld to nuts into place for you!

Once done you will end up with two like these:

Image

Hurray! Now I painted mine to give them some protection from rust – as where they “sit� there’s gonna be crud and water flung at them constantly.

Right now onto fitting!

Start off my jacking up the front of the car and removing the front wheels, preferably using axel stands. Next open the bonnet and remove those 4 rubber bungs – we wont be needing them from now on!

Now if you have already tried to fit the assembly’s you will have realised that the holes need to be filed/drilled out, as they are usually full of paint. So use the 10mm drill bit and drill the 4 holes out so that your bolts will fit in nice! Don’t mind if they are a little snug – this will help them not to fall out. If they are too snug use a round file or the drill again to open the holes out till it will fit.

Next put the Strutbrace roughly into place onto of the towers, and locate them over the holes each side, then from inside the wheel arch reach under and slot the assembly’s into place. Try to clean the area where its going to sit first, if once slotted in place, it stays there then great, if not use a little silicone sealant to hold it in place.

Now fit the brace over the newly protruding bolts and add your washers and nuts both sides but only hand tight!

Now you’re almost there, but we need to torque up the nuts, you have a choice: tighten it while it’s in the air, or put the wheels on – then tighten.
There’s a good reason for doing both so you can pick:
Option 1: Tightening while the suspension is unloaded is better, as it helps to maintain the basic geometry and means the bar is held in compression, and your forcing a little extra camber onto the wheels as the strut tops can’t flex inwards.

Option 2: Tightening while on the ground fixes the running geometry, and reduces the stresses on the bar and the chassis.

Personally I went for the latter as its easier for future removal and fitting, and also the strut tops shouldn’t flex that much anyway. But it’s really up to you.

So put the wheels back on, and drop the car back down, then torque the nuts up to 50Nm (36lb/ft, 5.0kg-m).

And you’re all done:

Image

Muchos thanks goes to Eddy Hyde for showing me how to do this!

By Rachel L Gordon A.K.A Rachel_Gee 2005

Disclaimer!
Please note this is just a guide, I take no responsibility for the 100% accuracy of the content. To the best of my knowledge this write up is how I fitted mine all ok, I also WON’T be held responsible if you screw it up or bolts shear or any other acts of “god� that end up costing you extra money - be nice to your civic and it will be nice to you.
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Project Tamama 09 - Image Running time: 300 Miles (Contains occasional strong language , mild threat, scary moments, and Strong use of VTEC)
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