Eg 4 Stud To Itr 5 Stud Conversion

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Eg 4 Stud To Itr 5 Stud Conversion

Postby Rachel_Gee » Sat Jun 27, 2009 3:22 pm

I figure since the del sol has the same chassis as the eg civic, this should all be the same?

So you’re bored of dull old 4 stud setup huh? Its ok I can empathise, that’s why today we will be installing 98 UK ITR or JDM EK9 5 lug front and rear hubs and suspension!
Now you might ask yourself…. Will it fit? What about my drive shafts? Is it the end of humanity as we know it!!!

And the simple answers are:

Yes it will all fit, the teg was based on the EG chassis thus handily for us EG owners most (note I say most) teg stuff with fit straight on, and the rest just needs some gentle persuasion!

Drive shafts wont be an issue, ALL (yes I did just say all) EG’s have the same outside diameter spline on the drive shafts of 32mm, and handy for us so does the EK9 and 98-00 UK spec DC2. The only one to watch for is the 98-00 spec JDM tegs as they use bigger Diameter drive shafts – heap of problems so best to just find some UK teg or JDM EK9 stuff!
And as for the end of humanity?? Yes im afraid so ;)

So we will start off with a good old parts and toolage list, its not impossible by any means even for beginners its all a questions of time, space and tools with a dose of luck. Once you have the right tools and know whats ahead, and as always be prepared for the unexpected since something always comes up no matter how prepared u are. Also some prep work I will recommend:
Prep:
A week or 2 before you attempt this, please read this document! Then get under your car and wire brush and then WD40 or better plus gas every bolt/nut/ part I mention in this write up, once done and left a week, try and “crack� open all the bolts, if your gonna have one seize up or shear its better when the car is still drivable. There’s nothing worse than being ½ way thro a job and something going wrong, then having to drive the car ½ lowered or 5stud up front and 4 stud on the rear to the nearest garage to get a bolt drilled out.
Parts:
1) UK 5 lug suspension (Front and Rear), Hubs (front and Rear), Front Upper Control arms, Front and Rear Brake Calipers with pads and disks of what ever make you fancy.
2) 5 stud alloys with tires – 15 or 16� ITR, 5th gen Prelude rims, S2000 (2 front sets) or EK9 alloys, or any other aftermarket brand of 5 x 114.3 alloys with a +45 offset!
3) Optional: Rear hand brake cables – essential if doing this upgrade to a 1.3Dx EG3 or 1.5 LSi EG4, or basically any civic with rear Drum brakes will need the hand brake cables from a civic with rear disk set up. Don’t worry, I wont forget you EG3/4 owners when the time comes!
4) Optional: Front and rear camber kits, what ever make, follow the manufactures instructions on how to fit them – I will NOT be covering how to fit them, the only reason I mention them is that it can be a good time to fit them, and please for the love of every other road user, get your car properly set up at a garage do not try and set it so it “looks alright�.
5) Optional: After market suspension, should fit the same as the ITR stuff, but im covering fitting “eye� type rear shocks – please make note.
6) Optional: S/S Brake lines and a full fluid change might as well while we are at it! As above I will NOT be covering how to change them, so please follow the manufactures guide/instructions, and if you don’t know how to change the fluid, get someone round who does – don’t drive your car without at least bleeding your brakes!

7) WD40 (or Plusgas as it rocks) copper slip, split pins.

Tools:
1) Socket Wrenches (32mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm, 10mm)
2) Wrenches (same sizes as above, maybe not a 32mm one though!)
3) 2 L of Brake Fluid dot 3 at least, dot 4 or above I would recommend
4) Flathead and Philips Screwdrivers
5) Extensions and Swivel ext
6) Breaker bar
7) Magnetic Nut tray ( this will be a savoir, don’t finish with leftover nuts )
8) A section of cellophane and a rubber band (ill explain why in a bit)


Stage 1: The Fronts first.
If you have any power tools available, they will be useful.
Start off by securing the car, I usually put a few bricks behind the rear wheels (if working on the fronts) and vice versa.
Next pop the bonnet and find you’re Master Brake Cylinder, remove the top, now take your bit of cellophane fold it so that it covers the top with some over hang, now secure it in place with the rubber band. Ensure that no air can get in. This will create a vacuum, meaning that when you disconnect the brake lines from the calipers, no/very little brake fluid will pour out (another neat trick my dad taught me)
Now the real work can start, first by taking the front wheels off, loosen all the wheel nuts with the 19mm socket and don’t forget you’re locking wheel nut key if you have one. Now to jack the car up, you can do this either by jacking up the car with a normal 2 ton hydraulic jack and using approved jack stands, personally I would recommend jacking it up where the lower control arm meets the chassis, then putting the axel stand under the side jacking point – but do what you feel safe with.

Remove the wheel nuts fully and then take off the wheel.

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Next using the 32mm socket and breaker bar undo the main Axle Nut; you will need to use a screw driver/hammer to leaver out the “notch� first. I find having someone sit inside and applying the brakes while I crack this nut undone helps a lot! Also note: crack both sides at the same time – as once you disconnect the brake line – you won’t be able to use the brakes again!
Using a 12mm spanner/socket to unbolt the brake line at all places where it attaches to the hub; do not disconnect it from the calliper yet! If your car is fitted with ABS you will also need to unbolt the wire, and sensor from the hub.

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Then unbolt the main bolt for the shock fork by using a 17mm socket/spanner, also loosen the 14mm bolt from the top of the Fork part. This will then enable the fork part to be removed from the bottom of the shock altogether leaving the shock itself being held only by the top 2 nuts. Now unbolt the top two nuts and the entire shock will just fall down, so be ready with one hand, or get a mate to catch it.
Now the only things keeping the actual hub in place are the Track Rod End (at the end of the steering rack), the lower ball joint and the upper control arm. All of the ball joints should be secured with a split pin, use some pliers and screw driver to get them out, if they are real bad just break them off so that you can loosen the nuts the bottom ball joint is a 17mm and the TRE is a 14mm or 17mm. You wont need the split pins as we are gonna be replacing them with new, and you can always drill them out better once you can get the whole hub on the bench. Now using the ball joint splitter, do as its name suggests and split the lower ball joint and the TRE from the hub. The whole hub will now be held by the top 2 14mm nuts (inside the engine bay) and the bottom ball joint should rest in the LCA.

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Just before you pull out the entire Hub and UCA from the car you need to disconnect the brake lines at the calliper - which is a 14mm bolt, be careful as it has 2 crush washers per side, don’t loose them or better, just replace with new. Now you get to see science in motion, remember the cellophane? We here’s the test of whether you fitted it well or not. At this point all that’s left is to undo those top two 14mm nuts in the engine bay and you can pull the hub (upwards and outwards from the car), if the drive shaft doesn’t slide out, spray some WD40 on it and try gently hammering it out (with a rubber or wooden hammer if available), careful not to flatten the top or you wont be able to get the axle nut back on!!
Repeat this for both sides!

Part 2 to follow...
Last edited by Rachel_Gee on Sat Jun 27, 2009 3:32 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Project Tamama 09 - Image Running time: 300 Miles (Contains occasional strong language , mild threat, scary moments, and Strong use of VTEC)
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Re: Eg 4 Stud To Itr 5 Stud Conversion

Postby Rachel_Gee » Sat Jun 27, 2009 3:23 pm

Stage 2: The Rebirth!
By now you will have removed all of whats needed for the front conversion you can start prepping, cleaning and making sure you have all the bits. I will often get side tracked at this point because I will sit there and clean everything that can be clean, wire brush and copper slip ever bolt etc before I put it back on – it’s just a habit my dad got me into doing.
You can start bolting everything back up in (as the Haynes manual says ;) ) the opposite of removal, main thing to install is the UCA the hub and reconnect it to the LCA. Once you have the new ITR/after market shock back in you can connect the brake lines and ABS sensor to the shock and then reconnect the brake line to your new ITR/Prelude/Legend/NSX/After market calliper. Don’t forget to bleed the brakes both sides fully – or your brakes wont work!

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And finally fit your 5 stud alloys, the fronts are done, we are half way there!
Last edited by Rachel_Gee on Sat Jun 27, 2009 3:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Project Tamama 09 - Image Running time: 300 Miles (Contains occasional strong language , mild threat, scary moments, and Strong use of VTEC)
Rachel_Gee
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Re: Eg 4 Stud To Itr 5 Stud Conversion

Postby Rachel_Gee » Sat Jun 27, 2009 3:24 pm

Stage 3 - The Rears
Now that we have upgraded the front we just can’t forget the back, this is where things can get really different depending on which model you have, ill try and cover them all so please bare with me. The rear is simple yet complex at the same time, because it can get a little more involved, but really it’s just a bit more time consuming and bulky to handle than the fronts, it’s also where seized bolts can happen, but naturally you will have done the prep work I suggested and this shouldn’t be a problem!

First unbolt everything as we did on the front, the brake line points and the abs sensor from where they attach to the hub. Next from the inside, undo the top shock bolts (you may need to remove a bit of interior trim to get at them), both 14mm.

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and you can also loosen the top of the trailing arm support, the two lower bolts seen in this picture, but don’t remove them completely just yet, as you will need them to offer some support, but later on you can take them off.

Inset picture here!

Now we have a choice, keep the rear assembly as one big lump (less undoing but more weight) or unbolt all the bits separate. Personally Im lazy so the less un-bolting I have to do the better, but ill cover the other way so you know.

So the next step is basically disconnecting everything that has to do with that lower trailing arm. This will involve removing 3 or 4 bolts, one that holds the LCA to the chassis, one that holds the shock to the LCA, one that holds the LCA to the hub, and the fourth is the rear Anti Roll bar (if you have an ESi or VTi that has them fitted as std). Excuse the fact that im doing this write up with pictures taken after the event so ive already got my ITR rear lower control arms and suspension, but bolt locations are the same.

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As you can see , once you remove the bolts the LCA will come off and the shock will fall out so again be ready to catch it, this will leave the trailing arm without any lower support. The extra bolts holes in my LCA are for the ABS sensor wire which I don’t have!

Next is the Mid trailing arm bolts, these are two big 17mm bolts that go upwards into the chassis and they can be tuff, but if you done the prep work they should be loose enough; don’t loosen them all the way as you will put a lot of stress on the final bolt to be removed.

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Which just so happens to be this one, it’s the “rear toe adjustment� bolt. On the driver side you can remove the exhaust if you like (recommended) but I didn’t have this problem due to my full rebuild!

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Now use the cellophane again on the master brake cylinder so you don’t spill fluid all over the place, then undo the 14mm bolt that goes to the calliper or drum, now this is where it gets a little tricky.
ONLY if you have rear drum brakes read on, ESi and VTi owners skip to the section you need:
You will need to replace the rubber brake line hose with a VTi or Teg one (std or Goodridge etc), handy as hell if your upgrading your lines to S/S as all you need do is buy the kit for the VTi fit them instead and be happy (follow manufactures fitting instructions). Also you will need to replace the hand brake cables as the fitting on the end is different for disks than there is for drums.
Now this is where it becomes a bit of a pain... you have to disconnect the handbrake cables. So to start go inside the car and disconnect them from the handbrake, you will need to remove the trim that goes abound the handbrake and gear shifter. Next you will need to trace the lines under the car and unbolt then at all the places where they secure to the car; this is about 3-4 places... which means getting things out of the way like the exhaust shields, plastic covers and the exhaust itself (for the drivers side). You will need to get under the car and trace the lines and see where they are attached, im not gonna try and explain the locations but they are obvious, they are all 10 or 12mm bolts. Once removed, you can then remove those top two trailing arm support bolts fully, and the 2 big 17mm bolts that go into the chassis, the assembly weights a fair amount so have a mate help you drag it out the way.

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Now that everything is off the rear you have more space to work with, it’s gonna get a bit messy because your going to need to replace that rubber brake hose with the s/s or std VTi/Teg hose. So right at the top where it bends in the hard-line you need to unscrew the hard-line, this 10mm nut can be a right pita, I would really recommend WD40, wire brushing the hell outta this nut along time before you start, if it rounds off, or chews up, or even twists the hard pipe – your in big, BIG trouble, I would also recommend using a halfords spanner designed for this job – they work great!
With some luck along with your hard prep work - it will come undone, once loose it will pop off, next you need to use a screw driver to force out the little “horse shoe� shaped clip thingy, and then the hose will waggle free. Replace the hose with the new one as fast as you can to reduce fluid loss (there shouldn’t be too much anyway due to the cellophane we put over the M/B cylinder).

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So for you now “ex-rear drum� guys it should be a case of fitting is reverse of removal, not forgetting that once its all together, bleed the brakes and top the fluid, or change the fluid if that’s what your gonna do, adjust the hand brake cables, and putting all the shields and exhaust back on - but your pretty much done!

ESi and VTi owners section:
See you had the foresightedness to buy an ESi/VTi a gold star for you! You won’t need to replace the hand brake cables as you have rear disks already, however you will need to disconnect them where they attach to the rear caliper, which entails a pin with retaining clip, and two 12mm bolts that hold a handbrake cable bracket to the hub, there’s also one other retaining bolt along the length of the trailing arm, near to where the 2 big 17mm bolts are.
You will also have to disconnect the handbrake cables from the chassis. So go inside the car and disconnect them from the handbrake, you will need to remove the trim that goes abound the handbrake and gear shifter. Next you will need to trace the lines under the car and unbolt then at all the places where they secure to the car; this is about 3-4 places... which means getting things out of the way like the exhaust shields, plastic covers and the exhaust itself (for the drivers side). You will need to get under the car and trace the lines and see where they are attached, im not gonna try and explain the locations but they are obvious, they are all 10 or 12mm bolts. Once removed, you can then remove those top two trailing arm support bolts fully, and the 2 big 17mm bolts that go into the chassis, the assembly weights a fair amount so have a mate help you drag it out the way.
You won’t however need to replace the brake line unless you’re upgrading the hose to s/s so just undo the 14mm bolt into the caliper (minding not to loose the 2 washers or just replace with new). And if you are upgrading the hose and get into rounding off problems at least you have the option of leaving the std hose in place and still being able to get to a garage if need be.
Once the hand brake cable and brake line are free of the hub/caliper you can again pull the whole assembly out of the way, and then refit the hand brake cable onto your 5 stud hubs. Then get onto the task of fitting your 5 stud loveliness’! But again don’t forget about bleeding thro the brakes, topping up the fluid or changing the lot if you want to! adjusting the handbrake cables and refitting all the shields and the exhaust!

And this is what your finished product will look like.


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By Rachel Gordon Aka Rachel_Gee 2006

Disclaimer!
Please note this is just a guide, I take no responsibility for the 100% accuracy of the content (I don’t own every model (yet!) so can’t be 100% sure on all the fittings). To the best of my knowledge this write up is how I fitted mine all ok, I also WON’T be held responsible if you screw it up or bolts shear or any other acts of “god� that end up costing you extra money - be nice to your civic and it will be nice to you. Also please for the love of every other road user (me included) get your alignment/tracking/and if you fitted camber kits get it - all set up properly at a decent garage, and please do all the bolts up properly, go around afterwards and check them all! Better to double check as we don’t want hubs falling off now do we?
Image

Project Tamama 09 - Image Running time: 300 Miles (Contains occasional strong language , mild threat, scary moments, and Strong use of VTEC)
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