HOW TO RUST PROOF YOUR CAR!!!!

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HOW TO RUST PROOF YOUR CAR!!!!

Postby Aaran » Thu May 24, 2007 5:07 pm

right we all know these cars rust, especialy with the ammount of crap on the roads (salt,oil,petrol, exhaust stuff etc)

best thing to do is SORT YOUR CAR OUT to stop this happening, this guide will be in lots of parts, as its not a one day job, more like a week one! :lol:

anyone with alreay rusting cars can not bother with any of this, you need that rust sorting BEFORE you do this. you can do this with early signs or rot, but as soon as its coming throught the paint your buggered.

Imports DO NOT COME UNDERSEALED! they dont salt the roads in japan, and most owners dont bother driving in snow etc over there. If you dont underseal your import straight away it will start rotting out within a couple of uk years, probably faster.

so:

PART 1, GET IT CLEAN!

so, first part if it inspect how dirty the areas are that are going to be undersealed, and get it all clean!

start with your side skirts, get them off and have a look how much niknak is in there:

Image

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you can see tha ammount of dried on crud and dirst, especially by the rear in the side skirt, hose it all off the sill and out of the skirt, get a sponge and a paint brush and a good car shampoo solution and rub the baked on stuff off it all, especialy on the underside of the sill! keep going until its immaculate and clean.

pull your front arch liner up, and clean all the crap out of the underside there on the body the same way:


Image

also get inside the rear arch area and hose all the build up thats on your arch lip out, then sponge it all out untils its smooth and immaculaly clean (its easyer to remove your wheel with the car jacked up and get your head inside here and clean the entire arch out inculding the rear wells. your really need it all spotless and clean! a pressure washer works wonders for removing the crappy flakey black paint they put on these to, get it as paint clean and so there is no black flaking paint left (note here, its the flakey paint that needs to go, the stuff thats already still stuck on is fine)

it should not look like this:

Image

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now, once its all dont and looking mint re-fit your side skirt etc etc. DO NOT PUT ANY SEALENT ON FOR THE NEXT FEW DAYS!!! reason is you want that area 200% dry!! sealing over water is a very bad idea, you dont want any trapped in there.

also remove those crappy black arch protectors, they help make the rot in the first place by trapping in water etc.

the reason why honda rot inside out is this:

the rear arches/sills etc are all SPOT welded, they are not seam welded, basicly water and dir gets trapped in between where 2 pannels join, and cause it to rust there, which then bursts through the paint (why it bubbles inside out)

next to come if the spray on wax treatment (external AND internal)
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Postby jdm_jib » Fri May 25, 2007 12:50 pm

can i just add for safety reasons, please use an axel stand if you have one as apposed to just a jack, if it gave way with your head in there it wouldnt do you much good.

good wite up tho, taking the time to remove the ariel bung and clean and waxoly around there is also well worth doing.
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Postby SammyCRX80 » Thu Jun 28, 2007 11:27 am

Incidentally, for those that do want to see what the rust is like on the 'inside panel' in that rear arch area - if you remove the rear storage bins and the plastic sheeting (if it hasn't already been removed) you can poke a camera with a light down there (careful not to drop it though!).
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Postby Aaran » Tue Jul 17, 2007 5:22 pm

undersealing part 2:

right your not finished yet, not by a long way :P

you NEED to get the arches immaculatuly clean, anyold underseal under there is probably peeling away by now, or like me there was very little to start with. take your wheel off (with it off the floor, obiously) and get your weapon of choice, either a variable hose, power washer, and some sort of cleaner with a few diffrent brushes. (p prefer pain brushes as they are soft and dont dig into paint etc)

so, armed with your hose blast that wheel well competly clear, most of the underseaal on there will simply just lift away, keep at it until all the loose stuff and dirt is removed, make sure you get the entire area as clean from dirt as possiable, use your brushes and gear to agitate it out, i also used autoglym motorcycle cleaner as its a de-greaser and it does not stink like crap. again MAKE SURE you get every bit of dirt off the area.

you should now be left with somthing like this:

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your not finished yet though, you still need to do the INSIDE of the sills. honda fitted drainage holes all along the bottom of the lower sills. those that are familiar with honda rot know hondas rot INSIDE OUT. the rust almost always starts internally. the drainage holes are a good idea, though there a two edged sword, they let water out, but they also let crap in. moisture forms here and causes rust, also i think alot of you will be shocked by how much crap actully is already inside them.


if you have a decent high end powerwasher you probably have some attatchments that will let you get a probe inside here to make life easyer, if like me you dont you can cheap out with just a normal hose pipe. take the spray gun off the end so you just have the hose, get a wine bottle cork and push it in the end blocking the tube.

get a needle and your lighter and heat the needle, and poke holes in the pipe just bofore the cork, you want them all around the pipe section. test it by turning the hose on and you should now have a multi angeled high pressure sprayer :D (for free to, if you dont have a cork go by a bottle of wine and drink it, yes...i am encouraging you to get drunk..you know you want to :D)

in the rear arch you have a rubber grommet that is painted over, there IS already a slit in it, poke your finger in and pull the grommet out, you now have an acess hole large enougth to get your high pressure spray in there. shove your hose/washer contraption in the hole as far in as it will go, though do not it will NOT go all the way down unlike me you have a think hose pipe ;). shove it in and turn you hose on:

GROMMET:
Image

INSERT HOSE HERE:
Image

now twist the hose and slowly bring it out, you should see alot of dirt, stones etc come out of the drain holes along the arch. i collect about 2 hand full or small stones from both sills (not to mention the enire ammount of dirt in there to!

DRAIN HOLES:
Image

if your crafty you can get some small flashlights into the drain holes and look through the grommet hole where you had the hose and have a peek around. mine showed a little bit of surface rust, but for a car thats 15 years old i was quite impressed.

there is nothing else you can do today im aftaid. its no good undersealing away as you dont want to apply waxoly (or your choise of rust proofing) over water. leave the car to stand until morning. i do reccomend just running the car down the street and back with the skirts off if you live on a sloping drive like me, just to ensure any stood water drains out.

NEXT: Applying the underseal/waxoly etc.
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Postby spees » Tue Nov 06, 2007 3:09 pm

Was this ever finished!? :(
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Postby Aaran » Tue Nov 06, 2007 6:03 pm

ummm ya :lol:

i forgot the piccies, still not got around to doing the front frame rails and rear drain area lol. will sort it next may when the weather improves lol.
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Re: HOW TO RUST PROOF YOUR CAR!!!!

Postby Mesa » Sun Oct 12, 2008 11:27 am

About to do this myself. One thing I want to know is do you (did you) just brush the seal on or did you get the spray one? Do/did you try to seal inside the drainage channel (behind that bung) or could that block up holes and useless anyway?
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Re: HOW TO RUST PROOF YOUR CAR!!!!

Postby Blunder1248 » Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:36 pm

Mesa wrote:About to do this myself. One thing I want to know is do you (did you) just brush the seal on or did you get the spray one? Do/did you try to seal inside the drainage channel (behind that bung) or could that block up holes and useless anyway?


I did mine with the paint on stuff! In the picture where he has the water hose it seems to be a hollow compartment going toward the front of the car with lots of hole in it to allow water to escape! I also remove the rear bumper and did behind that. :D
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Re: HOW TO RUST PROOF YOUR CAR!!!!

Postby boyband6666 » Sun Mar 22, 2009 6:41 pm

Don't suppose anyone has the pics to go with this still? Seems they have expired on photobucket but now it is getting to summer, it is something I shall be doing!

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Re: HOW TO RUST PROOF YOUR CAR!!!!

Postby johnrnugent » Mon Dec 14, 2009 6:23 pm

does anyone have the original pictures as i need to do this to mine ASAP before i have mine resprayed.
Thanks :)
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Re: HOW TO RUST PROOF YOUR CAR!!!!

Postby Paulm » Mon Dec 14, 2009 7:40 pm

in a nutshell

clean everything underneath with a wirebrush - ie no dirt at all

dry everything thoroughly

dry everything again, thoroughly

put as much as you want on.

when i dont the replacement shell,

rear arches complete, all behind the rear bumper, bottom of fuel tank, sills, front arches, and anywhere else under the car i could get to
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